Finding the right Fringe

Cutting your fringe can be two things fab or failure. Using these guidelines can help your fringe look flawless every time. So I have wrote a post on the best cut for your face shape. At the end of the post I stressed if you want the haircut that doesn't go with your face shape, by all means you rock it. It's the same things with fringe You can't always let rules hold you back!

Just so everyone is on the same page here, fringe and bangs are the same thing. Fringe is just the hair dresser high tech word for bangs. 

Finding the right Fringe

Oval Face shape: Just like I said with the hair cut oval face shapes can generally get away with any bangs or cut they want. If you want to try soft wispy bangs or side swept bangs it is a very flattering look. Make sure to avoid bangs that cover up your beautiful facial features.

Round face shape: Usually I recommend avoiding bangs that make your face look wider. Try wispy bangs or side swept that blend in with the cut you have. I broke the rule on this one. I have a round/heart shaped face. A few years back I NEEDED blunt straight bangs so I got them and LOVED them. Flow your heart!!

Long or Oblong shape: Bangs that appear bunt, heavy and or long will really flatter your face. Try a heavy side swept bang for a glamorous look!

Square face shape: I highly recommend having feathering around your face to soften your strong jaw. An arched bang with feathering would look darling!! That's what I did on my darling sister. As you can see she looks good with anything. I left her fringe a little longer so you can't see the arch as much.

Feathering Looks good with most face shapes. Feathering is fun because you can start it at the top of your cheekbone for a more dramatic look, or the bottom of your chin for a subtle look.

The right fringe for your hair type

When deciding the right fringe you also NEED to take into consideration your hair texture, type and density. Choosing the right fringe for your hair type will cut down on styling time, and will help you not have to wrestle with your fringe every morning.

Feathering is a easy go to. It Flatters most face shapes and it also works with all hair types.

If you have stick straight hair that is medium think you are lucky most any bangs will be easy for you to style.

Embrace the curl girls with curly, textured, or wavy hair. It is so in right now! Trust me I know people who would die for hair like yours!! Enhance your curls with some wispy soft side swept bangs.

Waring!! Ladies if you have thick, heavy bangs and you have really thin or really coarse hair you may be spending a few more minutes in the morning styling your hair.

Other Issues

Cowlick: ... Hmm lets say cowlicks are interesting to work with. Make sure you tell your stylist if you have a cowlick BEFORE he/she starts cutting. There are cutting techniques that will help your fringe look better. Make sure your fringe is thick enough that it will hold the stubborn cowlick down. When your styling your hair at home I recommend blow drying your cowlick the opposite way it lays ( Make sure your blow dryer is on a low heat please). If you decided to get side swept bangs ,You could also try bobby pinning your bangs at night the way they are supposed to lay.

Heat Issue: I have countless people come into me and are worried that their bangs will not grow. Sadly to say their bangs are growing, and they are breaking them off. How you ask? Well most everyone hair in the front is a lot finer and more fragile than it is in the back. The poor hair in the front takes the most damage with heat, pulling it up, braiding to the side, round brushing it,and whatever else you may do style your hair. Turn your heat down on your thermal styling tools and your fringe will stay looking healthy and fabulous!!

What's the Diff?!

There are so many different kinds of oils and serums to put in your hair. So hmmm... is there really a difference and what kind is best for you? Let's start at the top and work right.

MoroccanOil

This stuff is FANTASTIC. I would highly recommend MoroccanOil to people who have naturally dark, thick, coarse hair. That's right dark hair. MoroccanOil is a pretty heavy serum, a little bit goes along way. I would not recommend it to people who have fine or blond hair. The oil has a yellow tint to it and I have seen it yellow peoples hair over time. It is made for people who want to keep a nice golden shine on their dark/ black hair. For Blondie's who are die heart fans there is a Light version.

Suave Moroccan Oil

This oil will make your hair noticeable silky & shiny  in an instant and has a yummy fragrance. If that's all you’re looking for then this stuff may be for you. No need to read more. But, personally my mama always taught me you get what you pay for. So yes, it adds shine to your hair but it won't soak into your hair or offer healing qualities. There are other products that offer a lot more with better quality and is healthier for your hair

Neem Serum

My personal favorite, neem serum. It is all over great stuff. It is a thermal protector, offers UVA UVB and UVC protection, helps add shine to hair it also has  anti aging  properties  that restore your hairs youth natural radiance. Neem is great for people with coarse to fine hair. This serum uses nano technology so it will actually soak into the hair shaft not just sit on top of the hair. Just a WARNING a little little bit goes a long way. Where this oil soaks into your hair and doesn't coat it or just sit on the outside you can use neem on a daily basis.

CHI Silk Infusion

CHI Silk Infusion is fantastic for people who use CHI styling tools. They are made to work hand in hand. This is a lightweight oil that works great for fine hair. It uses wheat protein to help strengthen distressed hair. Words of caution  those who are about using all natural products, this is not for you it has lots of silicone oils in it. But where it is so light weight it can help keep volume in your hair while taming frizz.

Cooking Oils

Ok, Ok I know this may have been a little "no duh".  But for anyone who didn't know already cooking oil isn't meant for your hair. If you want to add coconut olive oil to a DYI hair mask that's fine, just make sure it is a high quality product.  I do not  use them on a daily basis because it is way to heavy for my hair type.

Ratting VS. Backcombing

I am a big believer of using the correct technique when dealing with hair.  There is a fine line when it comes to ratting and backcombing but stepping over that fine line can lead you down the road of creating a home for rats and creating the perfect amount of volume.

Ratting

I feel really bad for people when I see ratted hair. I just think OUCH that is going to hurt to brush out not to mention probably break off hair which creates fly a ways. Most ratting is not even and can look real bumpy on the head.

Backcombing

I am a big hair lover. When backcombing is done correctly,  it can make hair look 2x's thicker and more voluminous then it really is. It will also be easier to comb out which equals no breakage yay!!



How to backcomb...

Sectioning

Take the hair in sections. The sections depend on how naturally think your hair is. I usually take 3/4 inch sections. When sectioning make them long, like at least 1/2 the size of  your comb. The more sections you have the more volume you usually get. Make sure you leave a little bit of  your hair to covering up the back combing out so it can smooth everything out. I would leave out at lease a 1/8th of an inch.

How to comb Down

Believe it or not there is a method to combing down.  The best way to describe it is a circular motion. Do not just move the comb up and down that is "ratting". Make sure you pull the comb out after you push down before you move up the hair shaft again.

Create a Good Base

The base of your backcombing is what will hold your volume in all day. When combing down do not start higher then an inch off your head, 1/2 inch would be ideal. Do not move higher then that inch till your base is nice and fluffy. After you have a good base grab each side of the section and lightly pull horizontally to spread out the combing. If you have a good base it should stay in tacked at the root as you pull.

Products 

It is true, fine, silky, and smooth hair is way harder to back comb then coarse hair. So there are products to help with difficult hair.  Hair Spray is awesome to hold down fly ways but it seems that it is over used way to often. Over using hair spray can leave the hair dull, dry, and brittle. With all the alcohol in hair spray can dry the hair out can cause it to break. So use it sparingly. My favorite product for backcombing is a powdered volumiser . But beware, it can be over used really easy. I like to tell people to use it like you would pepper on your food,  not like salt (unless you are a pepper lover). Lightly dust it in at your roots. The product leaves a grippy feel in your hair, less is more. So, where do you put powdered volumiser ?? Well if you put your hand at crown of your head and spread your fingers out, anywhere your palm and fingers touch is where you would apply a small amount of the powder at the roots.

 Where to Backcomb

 It really depends on your head shape and hairstyle. The back of my head is flat so I have to make sure I backcomb on the crown of my head. I usually do three, 1 inch sections down to make my hair look like it has more volume. If you have a bob or want some volume on the sides of your head do a few sections of backcombing on both sides of your head. Just make sure after  you backcomb lightly pull the backcombing horizontally to make it look even on the head.

Brushing it Out

Brushing backcombing out is SO much easier than brushing out then ratting. Remember your sections?? Well lift up each section and start at the bottom and lightly comb it out. Brushing it out layer by layer will not hurt as bad and will reduce breakage. Do not just start at the crown of your head and brush straight down.

Remember practice, practice, practice makes perfect. If you can, practice on someone else first to master the technique then try it out on yourself. Mirrors are a great tool to help you!

Best haircut for your face shape.

Almost everyday I have people in my chair asking me...." Does my hair look OK? What should I change? If you were me, what would you do with you hair"... I actually love it!!! It is so fun making people feel more confident about themselves. As everyone already knows every face shape is different so I can't recommend the same cut, style or color for everyone. But luckily, there is a method to the madness.

• Oval & Diamond: OK, you all are lucky most any style works good for you. (lucky ducks)
• Round: Hair that is below the chin.  If you did want to do a bob make sure the ends are wispy. Center parts are also a way to make your face look longer and more slender.
• Square: Your hairstyle should soften the sharp angle of your jawline. I would recommend framing layers around your face.
• Triangular: Any style that narrows your chin and widens the forehead. A boxed bob would be really cute.
• Heart: Softer curlier styles a pixie would also work really well.
• Oblong: Style that adds width and fullness to the sides of the face, mid to long length with shorter interior layers. I would also add back combing to not only the top but sides of your hair too.

Now remember these are just guide lines. Everyone's  personality is different  if you have a round face or square face and you want a fo hawk or hair down the middle of your back, if that is you? By all means you rock it!!!!

Long hair don't care

It is true. I am a hair stylist and I have long hair... WHHHAT?? yeah I know. I have tried short hair and it just isn't me. I have chopped and grown my hair out lots of times. Everyone always asks what my"secrets" are. Well now I will share.

Product 

I always tell my clients, product, is the only secret weapon hair dressers have. Having professional product is so so SO important to keep you hair in good condition. Long hair takes a beating. Between thermal tools, sun, wind, minerals in the water, hair color and just everyday normal stress it goes through. To all of my clients that are wanting to grow their hair out I recommend a strength and or moisture shampoo. Your hair needs keratin and other natural proteins to keep it strong. I personally love the Lanza' line its what I use in my hair everyday.

Biotin 

Taking biotin helps jump start my hair growth. I take one every morning after breakfast. Make sure you take it with food and listen to your body. Some people may want to start taking a 1/2 of one everyday. I usually start noticing a difference in 3 months after taking it. MAKE SURE you take it everyday if you really want to notice a difference.

Split Ends Saga

Split ends ruin hair from the bottom up. There is no magical product that will mend a split end and I repeat nothing mends split ends. The only was to get rid of split ends is to TRIM them off.  For people wanting to grow their hair i usually recommend a TRIM every 10-13 weeks to keep hair healthy(every hair type is different that's just a guideline). When you go to get a TRIM ask the cosmetologist to show you how much they are planning to trim before they make the first cut to make sure you both are on the same page.

Turn the Heat Down

Did you know most thermal styling tools get 400 degrees.... that what most cookies cook at!!!! If you use any kind of heat tool aka, blow dryer, flat iron, curling iron or anything else you need to make sure to have a styling aid/heat protector  Please use the right thermal protector for you hair to keep your hair from burning off.  Most peoples hair do not need 400 degree tools to style their hair. If you can, turn the temperature down on the tools. You will be surprised how well it works.

Air Dry

To be totally honest here I let my hair air dry 90% of the time. If I'm in the salon or in a rush I can't really get around it, that's where good thermal aids come into play. But if I have time I will let my natural texture take over when I want to wear it curled or if I know I will want it straight I will brush it every 30 minuets or so.

First Post Ever

This is my first post on my first blog EVER!!! I am glad I have finally joined the blogging world. I hope I can figure it out soon. Wish me LUCK!